INSTALLATION OVER A CONCRETE SLAB
Hardwood flooring can be installed successfully over a slab, which is on-grade or above grade. Below-grade installations are not recommended. The slab must be constructed properly (flat, dry and level with a trowel finish.). The slab must be sound, level, and free of grease, oil stains and dust. Grind off any high spots and fill low spots. Prepare the slab by sweeping it clean. To be absolutely certain moisture does not reach the finished floor, a vapor barrier must be used on top of the slab. Where this is placed will depend on the type of system used.) Plywood-On-Slab System: Cover the entire slab with 4-mil or heavier polyethylene film overlapping edges 4-6″ and allowing enough to extend under the baseboard on all sides. This system uses 3/4″ or 1/2″ or thicker sheeting grade exterior plywood as the subfloor. Stagger plywood and joints every 4″ by cutting the first sheet of every other run. Loose lay plywood panels over entire floor. Leave 3/4″ space at all wall lines and 1/4″ to 1/2″ between panels. Cut plywood to fit within 1/8″ near and around door jambs and other obstructions where finish trim will not be used. Fasten the plywood with a powder-actuated concrete nailer or hammer-driven concrete nails. Be sure to flatten out the plywood and fasten securely. Starting at the center of the panel and working toward the edges, use at least nine nails per panel.) Screed Systems: This system uses flat, dry 2″x4″ screeds (sometimes called sleepers) of random lengths from 18″ to 48″, as a nailing base.

INSTALLATION OVER WOOD JOIST CONSTRUCTION
Use either exterior plywood or boards of NO.1 or NO.2 Common Pine or other softwood suitable for floors over wood joist. If plywood, use a fully 1/2″, preferably 5/8″ or thicker, performance rated. Lay panels with grain of faces at right angles to joists. Nail every 6\” along each joist. Use appropriate nails for plywood thickness. Allow 1/8\” spacing at panel ends and 1/4\” at panel edges, unless otherwise recommended by the panel manufacturer.

Laying and Fastening the Finish Floor – Strip Flooring:
The following instructions apply to strip flooring laid on plywood-on-slab, on screeds, and plywood or board sub-floors. Where a plywood or board subfloor is used, start by re-nailing any loose area and sweeping the subfloor clean. Then cover it with a good grade of 15lb. asphalt felt or building paper, lapped 4″ at the seams. This helps keep out dust, retards moisture from below, and helps prevent squeaks in dry seasons. Direction of finish flooring. For best appearance, lay the flooring in the direction of the longest dimension of the room or building. If a hallway parallels the long dimension of the room, begin the flooring by snapping a chalk line through the center of the hall and work from there into the room. Use a slip-tongue to reverse direction when you complete the hall later.

Laying a New Strip Floor Over an Old Floor:
The existing wood floor can serve as a subfloor. Drive down any raised nails, re-nail loose boards and replace any warped boards that can not be made level. Sweep and clean the floor well, but do not use water. Remove thresholds to allow the new flooring to run flush through doorways, remove doors and baseboard. Lay asphalt felt or building paper over the old floor. Always install the new floor at right angles to the old floor boards.

Parquet, Block, Herringbone and Similar Flooring:
The styles and types of block and parquet flooring as well as the recommended procedures for application vary some-what among the different manufacturers. Detailed installation instructions are usually provided with the flooring or are available from the manufacturer or distributor. There are two ways to lay out parquet. The most common is with edges of parquet units ( and thus the lines they form square with the walls of the room. The other way is a diagonal pattern, with lines at 45degrees angle to walls. For additional information, see the NOFMA Installation Manual.

REGULAR CLEANING
Spills and tracked in dirt can be cleaned by lightly damp mopping the floor with a house-hold sponge mop. Use clean water for regular sponge mopping. DO NOT over-wet the mop. Excessive water can damage the floor. In addition to cleaning with water, it may be necessary to clean with a mild all-purpose cleaner or a dilute solution of 1/4 cup of Amonia per gallon of water at least once a week.

DO NOT USE CERTAIN PRODUCTS
Don’t use the following products, or products similar in nature: Fantastik, Formula 409, Dishwashing detergent, powdered all-purpose cleaners, Murphy’s Oil Soap, Paste wax, Endust, Pledge, or other dusting products, Future, Mop N Glow, Brite, or other floor polishes.

DO NOT WAX OR SPRAY BUFF!
Water-base urethane finishes require little maintenance, so it is not necessary to wax or polish the floor. Waxes or polishes will actually make the floor harder to clean and cause problems for future recoats.

PERIODIC RECOATING
Following a regular maintenance program will preserve the life of your hardwood floor for years. Eventually your floor may need to be recoated. A hardwood floor should be recoated when the original finish is showing signs of wear but before it has worn down to the bare wood. Bare wood will be stained by dirt and grime and will need to be resanded. Reference: Basic Coatings’s Guide to Residential Floor Maintenance

PROTECT YOUR FLOOR
Place throw rugs in front of sinks in your kitchen and any doors leading to the outside where heavy traffic and tracking occurs. However, do not do this until at least two weeks after the finish has been applied. Chairs, and any other furniture that is moved frequently, should have floor glides attached to the bottom of each leg to help prevent scratching and wear. Do not wax the bottom of chair legs.

DAILY DUST MOPPING OR VACUUMING
Regular dust mopping or vacuuming is an essential part of hardwood floor care. A good quality dust mop or vacuum head is the most effective tool for cleaning dust and dirt off the floor. To keep your floor looking its best, dust mop or vacuum at least twice a week. Dust or vacuum more often on floors with heavy traffic.